When I saw
this Trolltunga picture sometime back, I thought that this is definitely not my cup of tea because of its dangerous position to pose for a picture. While planning
my Norway trip, I read a few articles about Trolltunga
hike that explained how amateurs attempted this hike and struggled. Having completed a 40 kilometer hike in India (Kudremukh), I
convinced myself out of pride that, this hike is for experts like me and included
it in my itinerary.
In Odda town, I met three more guys in Trolltunga hotel and made friends. One of them got a car that helped us reach the base of
Trolltunga hike the next day. The hiking sticks at the base camp lured me to
change my plan from ‘Classic’ to ‘22 kilometer Winter’ hike. Little did I know
that I’m prepared only to pose for the pictures but not for the hike! Ten of us
started with a steep one kilometer hike through dense vegetation and moved to a
mushy terrain scattered with ice and melted water. With a couple of breaks, we
moved towards mountains completely covered with thick ice. Under this thick
ice, one can hear the noise of melted water flowing. Out of fear, I took steps
slowly and was left behind by the group. Despite being cautious, one wrong step
broke the ice under my foot and I slipped into the water under the ice.
Fortunately, I got hold of a rock nearby and saved myself despite losing my
goggles.
Our guide approached me and suggested
that I turn back as it is going to get more dangerous ahead and the group has
to wait for me at every break. It kicked my ego like hell. I thought “Whom are
you speaking to? I completed a 40 kilometer hike and this is a mere 22 km hike”.
I gathered all my energy and started leading the group literally by running in
the ice. When I ran towards an area where ice was clean, I was quickly warned
by my guide. He shouted that I’m running on a frozen pond and stand a chance of
drowning in the ice. Later, I took as many as 20 wrong steps and fell in the
ice every time and got up. My guide noticed my struggle, appreciated my efforts
and suggested me to follow him. Actually, he threatened me to follow him but I
interpreted it as a suggestion to make myself comfortable.
Suddenly it started raining cats and
dogs and the temperature dropped further. I would say that ‘real feel’ is ‘freezing
cold’. My idiotic casual shoes added more misery and I literally experienced walking
on the ice with bare foot. On my way, I met a few hikers who were unable to
tolerate the cold weather and cried that they may die there. I gave some energy
bars and motivated them to return. The scariest part of the hike was to walk through
a narrow path in the middle of a slanted ice mountain. We held our breath with
the help of hiking sticks during this phase.
You might think that we forget all the
pain after seeing the most beautiful views from Trolltunga. No, not at all! After
removing the jacket and gloves, I gathered all my courage to stand on
Trolltunga and posed for pictures. When I came back to wear jacket, I am unable
to even hold it as my hands were frozen. Other hikers rushed towards me and
helped me wear gloves and jacket. Looking at my shoes and superman T-shirt, our
guide shouted in surprise “How did you manage to come so far with these shoes?
You must be a Superman!” At that moment, I wanted to give him a slap and all the
bad words in this world for not warning me at the start of the hike. But, I
could only show him my teeth acknowledging him for calling me a Superman! In no
time, I started running back in the ice to generate some heat in my feet to
survive in that cold weather. Then, I realized that the amateurs they are
referring to in the articles mentioned in my first paragraph was about people
like me! Damn!
Tips:
1) You need a guide till the end of May as paths are not clear. From mid of June, you don't need a guide.
2) Take thermals and rain coat based on weather prediction. Wear hiking shoes and take enough food.
3) Reserve hotels/hostels early as there is limited accommodation in Odda.
You can find my travel experience through some adventurous pictures with description in the link below:
https://www.facebook.com/jayanth.suravarapu/media_set?set=a.10153874932332865.1073741861.597222864&type=3
Tips:
1) You need a guide till the end of May as paths are not clear. From mid of June, you don't need a guide.
2) Take thermals and rain coat based on weather prediction. Wear hiking shoes and take enough food.
3) Reserve hotels/hostels early as there is limited accommodation in Odda.
You can find my travel experience through some adventurous pictures with description in the link below:
https://www.facebook.com/jayanth.suravarapu/media_set?set=a.10153874932332865.1073741861.597222864&type=3
